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Archive for the ‘Gastronomer recipes’ Category

RECIPE: Hot and Cold Whisky Chili Granita

Wednesday, February 18th, 2009

Imagine a dish that is cold and hot at the same time. Impossible? Well, this one is.

The flavor of the dish depends a lot on what kind of whisky and chile pepper you are using. A good malt whisky will lend a nice smoky flavor to the dish (but will also up the cost). I use peri peri or bird’s eye chiles but have also used Thai, jalapeno and New Mexico varieties with good results. Using chipotle chile you will achieve a smoky malt whisky flavor even if you are using a cheaper type of whisky. I use Scotch – but the dish is just as good with bourbon.

The granita is something in between a drink and a dessert and can be served as both. I serve it as a little something to wake up the guests after a long dinner.

Makes 8 to 10 small servings

Ingredients:

  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 2 to 4 small fresh or dried chili peppers, chopped or crumbled (see headnote)
  • 1/3 cup Scotch whisky (see headnote)
  • 20 to 30 ice cubes, plus more as needed

Directions:

Place 8 to 10 whiskey tumblers or other glasses in the freezer along with the canister of a blender or the bowl and blade of a food processor.

Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan; bring to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Add 2 of the chopped or dried chili peppers, stirring to mix well. Turn off the heat and let cool to room temperature.

Add the Scotch to the cooled syrup; transfer to a shallow metal pan and place in the freezer undisturbed for 1 hour; it should get very cold.

Just before serving, combine the syrup and ice cubes in the chilled blender canister or chilled food processor bowl. Pulse to form a coarse, granular texture. Add some of the remaining chopped or crumbled chili peppers to taste and pulse to combine; add ice cubes as needed for texture.

Divide among the chilled tumblers; serve immediately.

RECIPE: Apple-Brined Turkey

Wednesday, November 19th, 2008

Perfection delivered.

This recipe uses many of the findings discussed in the Nov. 19, 2008, Gastronomer column. The bird is brined in a light salt solution that also contains stock or broth (duck stock, preferably, but turkey or chicken broth will suffice) and apple juice. The acid in the apple juice will also help denature some of the proteins and connective tissue, and the sugars will increase the browning of the skin.

In addition, the breast is cooled before cooking and covered to prevent overcooking.

Note that the amount of salt should be between 3 and 6 percent by weight. If adjusting the amount of liquid used for the brine, adjust the amount of salt accordingly. (The salt has been adjusted in this recipe, allowing for the salt in the stock or broth.)

A little water or stock/broth poured into the roasting pan (underneath and not touching the bird) effectively steams the turkey during the initial roasting period. That is a very efficient way to heat the bird while at the same time keeping the oven temperature fairly low.

6 to 8 servings

Ingredients:

  • 1 12- to 14-pound turkey, neck and giblets removed from the cavity
  • 8 cups low-sodium chicken or turkey stock or broth
  • 4 cups apple juice, preferably unsweetened
  • Fresh herbs, such as rosemary and sage
  • 5 tablespoons fine sea salt
  • Unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • Boiling water or stock, for the roasting pan

Directions:

Place the turkey in an extra-large plastic food storage bag.

Combine the stock or broth, apple juice, herbs and salt; add to the bag. Close the bag tightly and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days, preferably contained within a bucket or large bowl (to collect any spillage); turn over as needed to make sure the whole bird gets brined.

Remove the bird from the bag and place on the kitchen counter; discard the brine and herbs.
Place some ice cubes in a large plastic food storage bag and drape it over the breast of the turkey. Let it sit for 2 hours. This will allow the turkey legs to warm to room temperature while the breast remains cold.

Meanwhile, remove the middle and bottom racks in the oven; preheat to 350 degrees.

Place the turkey on the roasting rack that fits inside a large roasting pan (snip off 1/2 inch of the wing tips, if desired; they tend to burn). Rub the bird with butter. Place a piece of aluminum foil over the breast to protect it while cooking.

Place the roasting pan on the oven floor. Pour 1 cup of hot water or stock into the roasting pan. During roasting, check regularly to make sure there is some liquid in the pan; add water or stock as needed.

After 2 1/2 hours, allow the water in the roasting pan to evaporate, or use a turkey baster to extract it. Remove the foil from the breast. Baste the bird with cooking juices or rub it with more butter. Increase the temperature to 375 degrees and roast for 20 minutes to give the bird a crisp skin and nice brown color, checking regularly to ensure that it doesn’t burn. (It will be more sensitive to heat because of the sugars in the apple juice; cover loosely with foil as needed.)

The turkey is done when the juices run clear from a fork or knife prick in the turkey thigh meat and its internal temperature registers 175 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. If the juices are pink, roast for 10 minutes and check again.

Allow the bird to rest for at least 30 minutes, and preferably 1 hour, before carving.