In this clip from the first season of American Public Television and BBCFood series, Perfect Day, Andreas demonstrates a simple way to poach salmon – in olive oil.
Archive for the ‘Recipes’ Category
Onion Low Carb-o-Nara
- Course: Main Course
This is a playful dish based on a recipe by Michel Richard of Citronelle, adapted by Gastronomer Andreas Viestad.
A carbonara without pasta, with onions in stead. It is not only possible, it is also tasty and fun. By steaming thin slices of onions, one achieves almost the opposite of caramelization. The heat will remove their pungency. Most of the sugars on their surface will be removed by the water vapor, leaving the onion slices mild, with a vague resemblance to pasta.
- 3 large yellow onions
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1 large egg yolk
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1/4 pound bacon or pancetta, cut into small dice
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for sprinkling, if desired
To prepare the onions using a meat slicer, cut off the root end and top of each onion and discard. With a paring knife, core each onion by cutting a cone-shaped piece from the root end, much as you would remove the stem of an apple. Stand each onion on one end and cut a vertical slit from top to bottom, just reaching the center. That will create long strands of onion, rather than rings, when the onion is sliced. Set the slicer to cut 1/8-inch-thick slices. Place a flat end of an onion against the blade and slice.
To cut by hand, leave the root end intact, but a cut a slit in each onion as above, then cut across the onions to make 1/8-inch-thick slices.
Separate the onion slices into strands. Place the longer strands in a bowl and reserve the shorter ones for another use. You should have about 8 cups of loosely packed onion.
Place a steamer basket in a pot over barely bubbling water (medium to medium-low heat). Place the onion strands in the basket, cover, and steam for 5 to 6 minutes or until the onions are translucent but still al dente. Remove the basket from the pot. (This can be done a few hours before serving.)
Combine 1/4 cup of the cream and the egg yolk in a small bowl. Set aside.
Melt the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and the remaining 1/4 cup of cream and cook so that the edges are barely bubbling for 30 seconds. Add the onions and pepper, tossing lightly to combine; cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until the onions are hot. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the reserved cream mixture and the Parmesan cheese. Taste and add pepper as needed.
Use a pair of tongs to lift each portion, letting excess sauce drip back into the skillet, and arrange in a small mound on the serving plate. Serve sprinkled with additional cheese, if desired.
Adapted from “Happy in the Kitchen,” by Michel Richard (Artisan Press, 2006).
Of all the recipes used on New Scandinavian Cooking, the recipe for Vodka Marinated Sirloin is a perennial favorite – it was even used by Nigella Lawson in her fabulous book Feast.
The recipe is posted here on the Scandcook website.
|It was a very good friend of mine who introduced me to this dish. The first time I tasted it – I just could not stop eating. You will be surprised by how much flavor the vodka will give away to the steak. Serves 8.
One 4-pound (2kg) boneless sirloin roast or beef tenderloin roast
|Rub the roast with the salt and pepper. Place it in a resealable food safe plastic bag. Add the parsley, 2 tablespoons of thyme, and the garlic and pour in the vodka and olive oil. Seal the bag and place it in a bowl in the refrigerator for up to 2 to 3 days, turning the bag twice a day or so.
Let the meat stand at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours before cooking.
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Take the meat out of the plastic bag; reserve the marinade. Heat a large nonstick skillet over high heat. Add the vegetable oil and heat until hot. Sear the roast on all sides, about 4 to 6 minutes.
Transfer the meat to a baking pan. Insert a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the roast. Roast in the middle of the oven, turning once, for about 1½ hours, until the thermometer (or an instant-read thermometer) registers 130°F for medium-rare; before the roast is done, pour the reserved marinade over it. Transfer the meat to a cutting board and let it rest, uncovered, for at least 20 minutes. Set the baking dish aside.
Just before serving, pour the cooking juices into a saucepan and heat gently. Stir in the butter. Season it with salt, pepper and the remaining thyme. Strain the sauce and discard the herbs.
Carve the meat and arrange on a platter with the sauce on the side.
This is a simple pie and the starting point of many different versions. Andreas Viestad likes the strongly perfumed flavor of lavender but says other herbs such as thyme, sage and rosemary also are good. Blue cheese has a nice bite that contrasts nicely with the sweet onion, but any scraps of leftover cheese can be used. Smoked fish, sausage or prosciutto also may be substituted for the bacon.
Food-grade dried lavender is available at kitchen stores such as Sur La Table as well as some Middle Eastern specialty markets.
For more about caramelizing onions, read the full Gastronomer article from The Washington Post.
4 to 6 servings
- 1 unbaked 9-inch pie shell (homemade or store-bought; use deep-dish shell if purchased)
- 2 large eggs
- 1/2 cup whole milk or cream
- 2 cups Caramelized Onions (see related recipe)
- 4 ounces bacon, diced, cooked and drained
- 2 teaspoons food-grade dried lavender
- 4 to 8 ounces blue cheese, such as gorgonzola, crumbled
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Bake the pie shell for 12 to 15 minutes, until golden. Let it cool.
Whisk together the eggs and milk or cream in a medium bowl. Add the onions and bacon, whisk to combine and pour the mixture into the baked pie crust. Sprinkle with the lavender and crumbled blue cheese.
Place the pie in the oven on the lower rack. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees and bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until almost set but still slightly soft in the middle. Let rest for 10 minutes before serving.
The precise ratio of water to chocolate depends on what kind of chocolate you use, the temperature of the ice water bath and, to a lesser degree, the temperature in the room. As always, when you are trying out a new recipe and a new technique, something may go wrong. But there are an unlimited number of chances to perfect this recipe; add more water or chocolate to adjust the viscosity. For a thick consistency, use the minimum amount of water called for. But be aware that the time between a lovely, whipped-cream texture and a rather grainy one is short. If you want to experiment, use the maximum amount of water, but be prepared to add more chocolate if the chantilly refuses to firm up.
The “chantilly” (not made with whipped cream, as traditional chantillys are) can be enhanced with the addition of a flavored liquid, such as orange juice or orange liqueur, lapsang souchong tea or malt whisky. But the amount of water must be reduced accordingly. It is also nice to flavor the chocolate with spices such as vanilla, anise, chili powder or fennel pollen.
Use a chocolate that is between 60 and 70 percent cocoa. Because the chocolate flavor is intense, a bit of whipped cream and a few passion fruit seeds provide perfect complements.
The chantilly can be made a few hours in advance and will firm up slightly, whether refrigerated or at room temperature. For best results, reheat in the double-boiler/bowl method described below and whisk to the desired consistency just before serving.
The technique this recipe is based on is described in this Washington Post Gastronomer article.
- 8 ounces dark (bittersweet) chocolate, with a minimum 55 percent cocoa, and preferably between 60 and 65 percent, finely chopped (may use one 8.8-ounce bar, such as Valrhona 62%)
- 1/3 to 1 cup water (may substitute other liquid, such as fruit juice)
- 2/3 cup heavy cream, whipped with 2 tablespoons sugar or to taste (optional)
- Seeds from 4 passion fruit (optional)
Combine the chocolate and water in a medium stainless-steel mixing bowl.
Fill a saucepan (just large enough to cradle the bottom of the mixing bowl) with ice cubes and water. Set aside.
Heat some water in a separate saucepan (just large enough to cradle the bottom of the mixing bowl) over medium heat. Remove it from the heat and place the bowl over the saucepan; stir just until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is shiny and smooth, with the water fully integrated.
Seat the bowl atop the ice water-bath saucepan; use a large whisk and start whisking vigorously. For the first couple of minutes not much will happen, and there will be a viscous, runny mixture. Then, often quite quickly, the chocolate will start to firm up to whipped-cream consistency (within 4 to 5 minutes); it may be best to remove it from the cold bath while the mixture is still a little loose and continue whisking until thick and creamy. If it will not firm up, return it to the ice-water bath.
If the mixture sets and becomes grainy (closer to a ganache), re-position the bowl atop the heated water for a few seconds to warm the mixture, then whisk to the desired consistency.
To serve, divide among individual dishes and top with a dollop of whipped cream and passion fruit seeds, if desired.
This full-flavored yet light butter is delicious with meat or poultry; with fish, substitute a white-wine reduction for the red.
If you are daring and make the chantilly just before serving, while the meat is resting, deglaze the pan with the wine and stock; it will add more flavor.
Be sure to use a wine that’s good enough to drink. The butter can be made a few days in advance and refrigerated, but it is better to make it the same day it will be served.
The technique and the science is described in this article in the Washington Post.
8 to 12 servings (makes about 1 1/4 cups)
- 1 cup red wine
- 1/3 cup reduced unsalted veal stock (stock is reduced over medium-high heat from 1 1/2 cups; may substitute 1/3 cup store-bought veal demi-glace)
- 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
- 1 teaspoon truffle oil
Combine the wine and reduced veal stock in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil and cook for about 30 minutes, until the liquid has reduced to about 1/2 cup. Cool until slightly warm.
Fill a saucepan (just large enough to cradle the bottom of a medium mixing bowl) with ice and water; set aside.
Place the butter in a medium stainless-steel mixing bowl. Whisk the reduction into the butter. Place the bowl over the cold water-bath saucepan and whisk vigorously. When the butter starts to set, lift the bowl from the cold-water bath; whisk, slowly adding the truffle oil, for about 10 minutes or until a light, creamy texture is achieved.